Frankenstein & Coffee Beans

Why Should We Donate an Ambulance to San Carlos Alzatate?

It started your as a typical lame firefighter joke. While visiting the fire station of San Carlos Alzatate, Guatemala, I innocently asked what year their ambulance was… “Which part?” they replied. As it turns out, the sole ambulance of Alzatate is something of a Shelleyan monster built from of the corpses of other dead vehicles.

“Like Frankenstein?” I asked, laughing… and a new nickname was born.

A tongue-in-cheek logo for San Carlos Alzatate's Ambulance. Why we want to donate an ambulance.
A tongue-in-cheek logo for San Carlos Alzatate’s Ambulance

The major parts of the body came from a mid-eighties Toyota van that still bears the scars of a roll-over accident in an earlier life. The motor is from an anonymous Datsun found in an auto graveyard.  The windows, bumpers and other body attachments were likewise grafted on to the vehicle in various automotive transplant surgeries. There is more Bondo than metal. Even the Emergency lights appear to have once served as a half of a light bar from another emergency vehicle.  All it lacks is a lightning rod to jump start it.

The "Frankenlance" gets some body and paint work done. Why we want to donate an ambulance.

The firefighters managed to raise 900 Quetzales last year (about $116 usd), enough to have a little body work done and get it painted white by a local man with a spray gun.  Like makeup on Frankenstein’s monster, it does not hide the scars. The tires are bald and undersized, the suspension worn out and sagging.  When it rains, it can no longer climb the few paved streets in town, much less the rock and mud tracks that lead to the municipality’s rural villages.

But the firefighters are proud to have anything at all. If they can’t reach the patient with the ambulance, they will bring the patient to the ambulance. Even when it means carrying people several miles over rocky roads strapped to their one backboard.

Getting to the Ambulance is only the beginning of the adventure…

San Carlos Alzatate is a medium sized town (pop. 23,000) in the remote mountains of the Jalapa Department, on the slopes of the volcano that shares its name. The people are largely indigenous Xinka (pronounced Sheenka). They are POOR, with over 85% living in poverty. Most are subsistence farmers. The largest part of their annual cash income comes from working the coffee plantations during the three month winter harvest season. Coffee is the only real “industry” in the area.

What little health care they have is provided during the day by the Clinica Salud, a government run family practice clinic with little in the way of supplies or medicines. Anything more serious, and any emergency, requires transport to the hospital in Jutiapa… well over an hour away…ON A GOOD DAY.

This main Alzatate street is so steep that the firefighters are forced to walk up it and carry the patients down to the "Frankenlance". Why we want to donate an ambulance
This main Alzatate street is so steep that the firefighters are forced to walk up it and carry the patients down to the “Frankenlance”.

There are not many good days.

There are two routes into or out of Alzatate. Pavement is non-existent on either road, In fact the word “road” is a generous description. The southwest road is rarely wider than single lane, rocky, muddy, steep and very windy. It requires fording two rivers to pass. Yup, fording… driving through, not around, the shallow rivers. In times of heavy rain, which is often, the route becomes impassable without four wheel drive and the skills to go with it. We came in this way, with the AMEDICA-mobile, and will not do so again. (We kind of like having the differential and oil pan attached to the car). The northeast “road” isn’t any better. Though without the rivers to ford, it is extremely steep, often muddy, and a harrowing trip without a 4×4.

Doing so in a 35 year old, two wheel drive, ambulance assembled from used spare parts, at night, in the rain, with bald tires is a little frightening.

The five firefighters of E-119, Bomberos Municipales, San Carlos Alzatate, proudly standing in front of their "Frankenlance"
The five firefighters of E-119, Bomberos Municipales, San Carlos Alzatate, proudly standing in front of their “Frankenlance”

There is Dedication, then there is well… Alzatate Dedication

The life of a firefighter is never easy, but here in Alzatate it is an order of magnitude more difficult. The city pays the five firefighter’s salaries (about $300 usd a month for a 24-on, 24-off schedule without additional days off.) and allows them the use of a former small elementary school for a station, but not much else. What firefighting equipment they have was provided by the national firefighting association, ASONBOMD, (a few extinguishers and two SCBA) and a donation from AMEDICAusa (Helmets, turnouts, boots and more SCBA).

Fire gear (supplied by AMEDICAusa with a donation from Colmar VFD in Pa.) stands ready.
Fire gear (supplied by AMEDICAusa with a donation from Colmar VFD in Pa.) stands ready.

Firefighters here have no fire engine, but rely on the “Frankenlance”, assorted ABC and CO2 fire extinguishers and bucket brigades for structural fires and a handful of hand-me-down tools for wildland fires. EMS supplies are purchased through the fundraising efforts of the firefighters themselves, who must often spend part of their shift and days off trying to elicit small donations from passers-by on the main road. They would like to build an auxiliary corps of volunteers, but the expense and difficulties in send prospective volunteers to Guatemala City for training is beyond their means.

Fire Chief Erick Najera & firefighter stand at the main entrance into town collecting donations from passing motorists and pedestrians. This is also what keeps the doors open and the lights on. Why we want to donate an ambulance.

EMS supplies are purchased through the fundraising efforts of the firefighters themselves, who must often spend part of their shift and days off trying to elicit small donations from passers-by on the main road.

Fire Chief Erick Najera & firefighter stand at the main entrance into town collecting donations from passing motorists and pedestrians. This is also what keeps the doors open and the lights on .

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A Firefighter’s life

Twenty six year old Fire chief Erick Najera is a prime example of the firefighter’s life in remote Guatemala. Sitting over cups of local coffee in his modest home, he shared a little of his story with us. (The coffee, home roasted, and stone ground, is phenomenally good. Interested in coffee from San Carlos Alzatate? Let us know .)

The son of a campesino (farm worker), he, his wife and newborn son still live in the old adobe home in a nearby aldea (village) along with their extended family. He managed to finish high school, doing an enlistment as an infantryman in Guatemala’s army. (No small feat in a country whose rural children rarely progress beyond 6th grade before leaving to work in the fields.) He proudly displays the certificate and small medal he received while training with the U.S. Special Forces during his time in the military.

On his discharge from the army, Najera returned home to Alzatate and came into contact with the local comité, a group of local business men and government officials, who were trying to start a new fire company in town. Erick wanted to serve. He began the arduous process of training to become not only a firefighter, but an officer as well. He travelled to distant Guatemala City to attend the required classes at the ASONBOMD fire academy. With nothing in his pocket, still trying to provide for his family and organize the new department at the same time, it took five long years.

Comandante (Chief) Erick Najera at his home near Alzatate, Jalapa. His father's horse, Dragón, is the family's sole transportation. Why we want to donate an Ambulance.
Comandante (Chief) Erick Najera and nephew at their home near Alzatate, Jalapa. His father’s horse, Dragón, is the family’s sole transportation.

In 2019, the 119 Company of Alzatate received it’s certification from ASONBOMD. It became the newest of the sparsely scattered 250 official fire companies in Guatemala, and Comandante Najera is at its helm. They provide fire/rescue services not only to the town but also to the surrounding villages and hamlets. They must struggle daily to reach their people who live in this remote region.

AMEDICAusa’s effort to Donate an Ambulance to Alzatate

Unfortunately, the trials of the firefighters in Alzatate are not unique in Guatemala. AMEDICAusa has long been supporting the fire companies who provide emergency services in the most hazardous country in the world. San Carlos Alzatate is but one, and each presents its own challenges.

The chief obstacle in Alzatate is its terrain and primitive roads. While we can’t fix the roads, we can search for and donate a vehicle that will suit their specific needs. We need your help. We are seeking one (or more, we have other companies that could really use them) 4×4 ambulance(s) that might be available for donation. The vehicle would hopefully be:

  • Four Wheel Drive
  • Of a common make that would not present a huge parts availability problem.
  • In good enough condition to allow immediate use in the field
  • Be diesel powered. Gasoline is expensive in Central America, Diesel a little less so.

If you have or know of one that is available, contact us at AMEDICAusa. There may be significant tax advantages to private parties/companies for their donation.

Hurricane Eta Leaves Guatemala Reeling

Hurricane Eta slows to tropical storm and dumps two feet of rain in parts of Guatemala. UPDATE: Hurricane Iota Now Predicted to Strike Central America As Category 5 Storm

FIrefighters and Soldiers Recover Victims of Landslides following Hurricane Eta in Guatemala
FIrefighters and Soldiers Recover Victims of Landslides following Hurricane Eta in Guatemala

Aldea Quejá (al-DAY-a kay-HA) was a sleepy little village of some three hundred or so homes, situated along an unimproved dirt track, high in the mountains of Guatemala’s Department of Alta Verapaz. It boasted a small rural elementary school, a soccer field, a Catholic Church and two smaller, storefront evangelical churches… and not much else. Its people are largely campesinos – agricultural workers, who toil on small farms, or workers in small shops and stalls selling local produce and odds and ends.

On Thursday, November 5th, the village of Quejá ceased to exist.

It started raining on Saturday. Not abnormal, it is the rainy season here in Guatemala, and a little two-hour rainstorm in the afternoon is the rule. But this one didn’t stop. In fact, it began to rain harder and harder. For days. Torrents of rain.

By Wednesday the “highway” was more river than road. The three small gentle mountain springs that provided the village with water were raging torrents. And still it rained. Hard.

On Thursday, at about 1 p.m., the mountain above the town all but collapsed. A deadly slurry of hundreds of thousands of tons of mud, rock, trees and water cascaded down on Quejá burying the unfortunate and leaving the rest homeless and many miles from the nearest support.

Rain and Road Washouts Hamper Rescue Efforts

News of the landslide reached the nearest emergency responders, Company 86 of Guatemala’s Volunteer Firefighter Corps (CVB), in San Cristóbal Verapaz , a little later.

On a good day the drive from their little fire station to the village takes well over an hour. Though only about 15 miles road miles away, even the main roads in this part of Guatemala are tortuous, steep and windy. This was not a good day.

Fire Company 86 was forced to abandon their vehicles on the main highway and attempted to reach the village, about 2 miles further, on foot. They ascended a steep, mud-slicked track and slogged through mud sometimes chest deep. Footing was so difficult that they frequently resorted to ropes to haul themselves over – or through – the obstacles. Military units were responding from a second direction. Neither group was able to reach the village before treacherous conditions, darkness and continuing rains forced retreat and a halt for the night.

The rescue effort resumed at 4 a.m. on Friday, reinforced by a group of the Municipal firefighter’s search and rescue team. Slackening rains allowed Company 86 finally reach Quejá about midmorning. The small Guatemalan military unit arrived shortly after.

Rescue Arrives

The first survivors of the landslide were found mostly huddled in one of the few concrete block buildings that had survived. Hungry, tired, wet and cold, they were gathered in small groups and evacuated on foot by the firefighters and soldiers. Children, the aged and the injured were often carried on the backs of the rescuers back down the mountain. Their destination another small village on the highway, Santa Elena, where a temporary refuge was being set up.

Firefighters search for survivors after Hurricane Eta

Meanwhile, the remaining firefighters began the difficult, and often grim, task of locating any survivors that may have been trapped under the landslide. According to the rescuers, for the first day they still heard screams from children and women for help. There are an estimated 100 people underneath the slide. Tools are in short supply and the mix of mud, stone and trees is described as like digging in cement. Recovery efforts will continue but with every hour the chance of rescue dims. Continuing landslides from the mountain above makes it very dangerous work.

It is unlikely that the people of Aldea Quejá will ever be able to return to the village where they made their lives. It is likely to be designated a national cemetery and the residents, mostly the poorest of the poor will have to seek lives elsewhere.

Scenes repeated all over Guatemala

Some 50 miles to the northwest lies Aldea Chabaj. A very similar mountain village in the Department of Huehuetenango, it too has suffered a major landslide. With similar tragic results.

Suffering the same infrastructure problems as Alta Verapaz, this slide is at nearly 10,000 feet in the high mountains. Walter Gomez, commander of Huhuetenango’s 17 Company CVB firefighters says the main highway into the area is blocked by road collapse and multiple tractor trailers. This is preventing search and rescue teams from other departments coming to aid the few resources under his command. Villages in Huehuetenango – Poxlac, Las Brisas 1 and 2, San Carlos and Chibal – had to wait many hours before these resources began to arrive.

What Goes Up Must come down: Flooding in the lowlands

The Department of Izabal, on the east coast of Guatemala is perhaps the hardest hit. Not only did they get the brunt of the storm, but all the water that fell in the mountains will drain to this area. Widespread catastrophic flooding has stranded many communities, washed out bridges and roadways and submerged whole towns. Puerto Barrios, Guatemala’s only gulf coast seaport, is not only flooded, but is cut off from the rest of the country. This will severely limit the availability of supplies and foodstuffs that normally flow through the port. Most of the bridges on the highway from Puerto Barrios to Guatemala city have failed.

Petén, home of the most famous Maya ruins, suffers a similar fate. Petén is the largest of Guatemala’s Departments, but also has the fewest emergency services. Zacapa and Chiquimula, near the Honduran border, have suffered severe flooding and bridge failures as well.

Santo Tomas de Castilla, Department of Izaba, Guatemala after Hurricane Eta
Santo Tomas de Castilla, Department of Izabal, Guatemala

Hurricane Eta is a long term disaster.

Eta’s damage goes far beyond its immediate effects on the people and structures currently involved. The storm also destroyed the current crops on which the country, particularly the poor, depend. The largest part of the rural population are subsistence farmers or agricultural workers. Many will now be not only homeless, but without food and without income to rebuild.

AMEDICAusa and Hurricane Eta.

First, our staff and volunteers are safe. We are all currently on the pacific side of Guatemala or in Guatemala City where the storm was not nearly so bad. We will continue to operate with as little risk to our personnel as is possible.

Our plan is this, in order of priority and immediate need:

  1. Continue to support the emergency services / firefighters during emergency operations. We have a very large airlift of equipment and supplies ready to fly as soon as the Air Force gives us the word. Our partners The REDS Team delivered another airlift to Guatemala today. We remain in contact with the fire companies and commanders in the field to assess and fulfill immediate needs.
  2. Support shelters housing and feeding those who have lost their homes to the storm.
  3. Support efforts to aid the children and their education long term.

This is a rapidly developing situation, but there is a lot to do both in the short term and long term. We would greatly appreciate whatever support you can give us, particularly cash donations.

UPDATE: Hurricane IOTA

Hurricane Iota is now approaching Central America and is poised to strike as recovery efforts from Eta are just beginning.

In the aftermath of Hurricane Eta, Hurricane Iota is now poised to strike as a Category 4 storm.
Hurricane Iota Forecast as of Sunday, Nov. 15

The National Hurricane Center has updated Iota’s strength to a Category 5 Hurricane. It will continue to strengthen until it makes landfall tonight. While this is a wind speed measurement, it correlates strongly with both the size and rainfall totals expected with the storm. Its path is also expected to slowly cross Central America, rather than swinging back into the Atlantic as did Eta. This will exacerbate the disaster following Eta and may greatly widen the area of destruction in Guatemala. Iota’s arrival will be two weeks to the day after Eta.

Road Trip Time – Put Some Fuel in the Truck!

AMEDICAusa is undertaking the Great American Road Trip to collect donated Fire-Rescue Gear for Firefighters and Medics in Guatemala
AMEDICAusa is undertaking the Great American Road Trip to collect donated Fire-Rescue Gear for Firefighters and Medics in Guatemala

The Great American Fire/ Rescue Road Trip – Driving for a Great Cause

If there is one thing we do a lot of, it is driving. Whether it is on remote dirt roads in rural Guatemala or on mega-highways of the United States, AMEDICAusa spends a lot of time on the road. We certainly don’t mind. We meet incredible people, see places that few ever get to see, and travel is an essential part of our mission. As of this writing AMEDICAusa and our partners have equipped and trained over 70 Fire Departments in Guatemala at no cost to them. We would like to make it 100 by the end of the year. So we don’t mind at all. If it were easy, everyone would do it.

6,000+ Miles To Save Lives in Guatemala

This trip is different. From EMS equipment in Vermont, to two Fire Engines in Texas, generous donors have gifted our program with equipment and supplies urgently needed by first responders in Central America. From Bunker Gear in Florida to a breathing air compressor in Ohio, we need to gather their kind donations and ready it for transport to Guatemala.

The Road Trip - Part One
The Road Trip – Part One

Among non-island nations, Guatemala is the most “At Risk” for natural disasters. A very small band of brave, dedicated, but severely underequipped first responders is all that stands between its people and catastrophe. That’s why we do what we do.

– Neale Brown, President, AMEDICAusa
The Road Trip - Part Two
The Road Trip – Part Two

Cold Hard Cash…We Need Your Help

Fourteen different Fire Departments, E.M.S. squads and private companies have made generous equipment donations to the effort so far. That will be enough equipment and supplies to outfit more than 10 Fire Departments in Guatemala. Can you step up with a couple of bucks to help get those supplies to those who need it?

Travel is costly. Rental truck, fuel, a couple of one way airline tickets to get our drivers to the fire engines… and the occasional toll… it adds up. While all of our staff, from the hard working folks who help sort, pack and ship to our President are volunteers, the hard fact is that there are costs associated with transporting the donated gear to our brother and sister first responders in Central America. They depend on you to help get it there.

Donate securely with paypal click here

It is easy to donate, just click here (or use the donate tab in the menu) to go to our secure donation page with your credit or debit card, or use your PayPal account. You can also contribute through FaceBook if you prefer. All transactions are handled by securely by PayPal and we do not have access to nor store your financial information.

Other Ways you can Help

Are you near our travel routes? Hold a small fundraiser, fill a boot, or just make us a cup of coffee and we’d be glad to stop by on our way. We might be a little bleary eyed when we get here, but we’re always happy to talk about what we do. Got equipment you would like to add to the cause? Let us know. We’ll make room in the truck.

Who Are you Guys, anyway?

AMEDICAusa is a U.S. 501(c)(3) public charity whose staff have been working in Central America for over a decade. (AMEDICA is an acronym for Aiding Medicine, Education and Disasters In Central America. The usa was added to make it clear that we are an American charity) Our primary focus is on aiding the people of Guatemala, particularly in times of disaster, which is unfortunately common in that country. Our president and volunteer instructional staff are all working or retired professional firefighters, paramedics and/or rescue specialists. Our other volunteers come from all walks of life. We have been recognized both by the NGO community and by the people of Guatemala for our humanitarian work. In 2016 AMEDICAusa was honored to receive the Monja Blanca medal, Guatemala’s highest civilian decoration, for our humanitarian efforts in that country. Interested in joining us? Click here for more information.

At Risk: Going the Extra Mile and then some

Guatemala is the Most “At Risk” Non-Island Country in the world.

A recent UN sponsored study finds Guatemala’s risk of natural disasters to be extraordinarily high. While we knew this instinctively, the report confirms the difficulties our neighbors face from catastrophic events.

Santa Cruz Barillas, a remote municipality of 140,000 people, is a good example of both Guatemala’s disaster problems and AMEDICAusa’s solutions. Barillas is located in the high mountains at the northern edge of Huehuetenango province, not far from the border with Mexico. Its people are a mix of Qʼanjobʼal Maya indigenous peoples and Ladinos. Most are poor.

Though it is far from Guatemala’s volcanoes, Barillas is at risk not only from the day to day emergencies common throughout the world, but also potentially catastrophic events specific to the area. The terrain is steep. Deforestation and the ever present rains present significant risk of major landslides. It is pummeled by rain storms both from the Caribbean and Pacific. Road washouts occur every year.

Forest and other wildland fires are common in the dry season. The terrain and lack of roads makes them very difficult to control.

Santa Cruz Barillas also sits very close to the Ixcan Fault, which has historically generated earthquakes as great as magnitude 7.5. Many of the structures are of brick/adobe construction, ill suited to bear the movement of a major earthquake.

At Risk… and Alone

Against these threats the people of Barillas depend on one small company of the Bomberos Voluntarios firefighters. Consisting of seven paid (including the chief) and eight volunteers, the 109 Compañía Bomberos Voluntarios does what it can, providing medical aid and emergency services 24 hour a day to both the city and the surrounding villages. They are grossly short of equipment. Their 1963 (yes, 1963…) Chevy fire engine hasn’t run in ten years, they have little personal protective gear, ancient helmets and no airpacks. They fight fire by bucket brigade. Their nearest working fire engine is over four hours away.

109 compañía Bomberos Voluntarios Barillas Huehuetenango

This is why AMEDICAusa was called to Barillas. Nowhere is the ‘thin red line’ of firefighters more embattled than in the remote mountains of Guatemala.-Neale Brown, President, AMEDICAusa

Going the extra mile.

Travelling to Barillas is not for the faint of heart. The limited access is over a lonely, high altitude “highway” which lacks pavement, road signs, guard rails, services and often visibility. The road crests at well over 10,000 feet. With steep grades, often near 10%, engines strain and starve for air. Potholes are pond size, rocks and small boulders are common, and landslides frequent. It is just wide enough for two careful vehicles to pass. Along with this, daily rainstorms and thick fog occur in the afternoon, and an average speed of around ten miles an hour is the best to be hoped for.

At risk: A small portion of Santa Cruz Barillas peeks through the fog and clouds
A small portion of Santa Cruz Barillas peeks through the fog and clouds

Our trip began at o’dark thirty, leaving from Retalhuleu, near the coast. We are in the “AMEDICA-mobile” a 2007 Hyundai Tucson, two wheel drive SUV, with a 170K miles on her. (More about this later.) Fresh from the mechanic, we are hoping she is at last in good enough shape for a back-country trip.

Laughably optimistic, Google predicts an nine hour drive to cover the 175 mile journey. Armed with a full fuel tank, coffee, ham sandwiches, chicharrones, bottles of flavored agua pura and our fire gear we set off on a climb of the central mountains of Guatemala. We started with the idea that we will arrive early enough in the day to meet with the director of the 109 Company in the afternoon. Alas, that was but a dream.

Mountain Climbing

Climbing the first mountain passes was marred only by the normal predawn parade of overloaded trucks and suicidal bus drivers passing around blind corners on the wrong side of the road. Normal enough for Guatemala. It garners no more than the average number of malditos from me.

A community at risk. Satellite view of Santa Cruz Barillas highway route
Satellite view of the route to Santa Cruz Barillas.

Once we begin the climb out of the city of Huehuetenango, already at over 6000 feet, it got interesting. The Sierra de los Cuchumatanes mountains are steep and the roads are “iffy”, at best. The AMEDICA-Mobile struggles for air and we are often slowed to black-smoking, walking speed. It does give us a lot of time to admire the views, when not slalom driving around wheel-eating potholes.

Cresting the first mountain range, there is a wide, relatively flat plateau, broken up by rocky outcroppings. Sheep are the common livelihood here and small shepard’s casitas dot the plain. We are occasionally delayed by wandering ruminant traffic jams. Sheep are apparently immune to the noise of a car horn.

Ominously, clouds begin forming in the next range. When we attempt the steeper climb into the high mountains, we discover two things. First, the pavement disappears between the mountain towns. Second, pockets of dense fog are becoming trapped between peaks. Once again we slow to a crawl.

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Churches in the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes

Driving Blind

Between the sections of missing pavement are several picturesque towns. Signs along the road are now split between Spanish and Qʼanjobʼal. Beautiful Churches and more traditional Maya clothing. San Juan Ixcoy, Soloma, San Miguel Ixtatán and the infamous Santa Eulalia. (Note, Google Maps and Waze work here but there is a LOT of missing data.) If you get turned around in Santa Eulalia, you will find yourself at the bottom of a 12% grade that is impossible to climb when it is wet. When you say goodby to Santa Eulalia you also say goodbye to any semblance of pavement for the rest of the trip.

Having said Buenas Tardes to pavement and bouncing furiously among now unavoidable holes and rocks, we soon get to say goodbye to visibility as well. Riding along the 10,000 foot mark, we are enveloped in the afternoon fog and rain that is a daily occurrence here. Gone are the vistas, totally hidden by the clouds. This may be fortunate, as the precarious drop at the side of the road and the lack of shoulders and guardrails are equally obscured.

We are driving by braille now. Tailgating the rare vehicle in front of us to guide on their lights is helpful. The occasional pedestrian or stray dog, horse or pig appear ghostlike in front of us, then vanish with equal rapidity.

Santa Cruz Barillas - a Guatemalan community at risk.
Santa Cruz Barillas from the Rio Kan Balam

After four hours of “nose against the glass” driving we arrive finally in Barillas. The fog dissipates as we drive into the valley and the city opens up before us. There is pavement (in some places) again. Five hours after our hoped-for arrival time… tired, hungry and mud spattered, we get a quick bite and retire to our hotel.

A Community at Risk.

Barillas is a big town, but from an Emergency Services perspective, it is a lonely place. Mutual aid, help from other fire departments, is not coming. It is four and a half hours or more to the next fire station. Far from the seat of government in Guatemala City, they have been fighting for two decades for a paved highway to no avail. More merchandise comes to town “informally” across the Mexican border than via more traditional routes. But you can’t strap a fire engine to a burro carry it across the Mexican frontier.

We met with the firefighters and officers at the modest fire station near the center of town. Welcoming us as brother firefighters, and proudly touring us around their spartan quarters, they are eager to discuss the issues of the company and the problems they face. In fact, both shifts and a few volunteers are in quarters for us.

1963 Chevrolet Fire Engine in Santa Cruz Barillas. It hasn't run in a decade.

“You can’t strap a fire engine to a burro and carry it across the Mexican frontier”

Some of the challenges faced by the firefighters are obvious. Terrain, narrow, often unpaved streets, haphazard electrical wiring, both inside and in the transmission lines, lack of zoning are omnipresent in Guatemala. The mercado, a large area of ramshackle, semi-permanent stalls housing small stores, is the major target hazard. A fire here could devastate the city.

Not so obvious is that the firefighters themselves are at risk. Lacking appropriate personal gear for firefighting, sufficient water and even a working fire engine the risk of serious injury is high. Even the routine EMS run presents significant hazards.

“They robbed us in the ambulance last month” relates one firefighter. “They took everything, shoes, jackets, money and equipment. All they left us was the ambulance and stretcher.” The incident took place at around midnight on a lonely stretch of the highway, in between towns. (This story added significantly to the stress later when we get stranded by a mechanical breakdown on the highway in the middle of the night.).

AMEDICAusa meets with the at risk firefighters of Santa Cruz Barillas, Guatemala
AMEDICAusa meets with the firefighters of Santa Cruz Barillas, Guatemala

AMEDICAusa Bringing Aid to Barillas Firefighters

Our mission is, in large part, disaster relief. It is our belief that equipping and training the local first responders is far more effective than simply banking supplies and money for use after an event. It also provides for aid to at risk communities for incidents that don’t make international news.

We have already prepared a shipment of personal protective equipment for Barillas, sending more than a dozen complete sets of firefighting gear to the firefighters. We have also tentatively designated a fire engine for donation to the company. It is the least we could do. Of course, we will also be providing the training to go with it.

More trips to the mountains are in our future.

It was a Dark and Stormy Night

We thought we had had enough adventure on our route into Barillas. Leaving early in the morning was an attempt to at least miss the afternoon fogs and rain on our return. Unfortunately, this was not to be. We rattled through the early portion of the trip, but rains caught us as we arrived in Santa Eulalia. This was enough to prevent not only us, but an entire parade of other vehicles from climbing the mud slicked monster slope through town. Stuck in the vehicular clump, we waited more than two hours for the police to find and clear an alternate route for traffic to pass. With the added time it was almost dark when we began the climb to the summit outside San Juan Ixcoy.

We almost made it.

Just a kilometer below the summit, before reaching the plateau, the AMEDICA-Mobile gave up the ghost and absolutely refused to go farther. After dark, in a fog and rain storm, in the middle of the road, without shoulders, and at the end of a blind corner, she stalled. Starved for air, no amount of coaxing could get the vehicle to move more than a few feet.

Many words and phrases, in several languages, came immediately to mind. None are printable here. We are at risk in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

We Get Rescued… again

There are a great many advantages to having friends among the firefighters here in Guatemala. Like firefighters everywhere, they will give you the shirt off their back (sometimes literally) if you need it. The AMEDICA-Mobile has failed us a couple of times in the past, usually near a Fire Station where we were able to get assistance.

While the firefighters in Huehuetenango are still at least a couple of hours away, I chance a call to them to ask if they know of a tow truck in the area. An hour later they have our rescue arranged. Police arrive to help us move the car out of traffic and provide a little security while we wait. Comandante Walter Gomez in his command car and an ambulance arrive in two hours to carry us and our gear back to Huehuetenango and a hotel, and a tow truck is dispatched at first light to retrieve the AMEDICA-mobile and take it to the fire company mechanic.

We dined on cupcakes and coffee that evening, but not being stuck in the mountains all night (or being crushed by an overloaded tractor trailer) was a huge gift, as was the ride back to Retalhuleu the next day.

Donations Gladly Accepted

Normally at this point in a news post, I would add a little blurb to ask for donations, and it is time for our annual donation drive. The fact is we NEED a different vehicle. As we reach out to more remote areas the need for a heavier duty, four wheel drive, RELIABLE vehicle, capable of transporting our instructors and equipment, is becoming more obvious. It is hard to drive anywhere in Guatemala without crossing the mountains, and the old Hyundai is on her last legs. I guarantee your donations will go a long way.

Including that extra mile….

Embattled Nahualá Firefighters host AMEDICAusa visit

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Nahualá Firefighter, Francisco Chox, in uniform coat and traditional Maya traje, with AMEDICAusa’s Neale Brown at the 77 Compañia Fire Station, Nahualá, Sololá, Guatemala

Nahualá firefighters have many obstacles to overcome, not the least of which is the altitude of their home. Located at just over 8000 feet, even cars can have difficulty with the lack of air pressure. The roads into their picturesque town crest at over 10,000 feet. Like your grandfather’s school, it is truly uphill both ways.

Our friend, Francisco Chox, known as El Chivo, the goat, has invited us here for a tour of the station and to meet the other firefighters of this highland town. Chox is widely known in the Guatemalan Fire Service community for having completed his final physical skills exam at the fire academy while wearing only the traditional Maya traje under his airpack and helmet. This makes our knees hurt to even think about. He still wears the traje on duty, though he jokes, NOT in a fire.

Francisco has often travelled far to attend AMEDICAusa classes in other parts of Guatemala. So we felt it was only fair to visit Nahualá in return.

A trip to Nahualá: 3 Hours in Second Gear

Travel in Guatemala is, at best, difficult. Driving from the pacific lowlands into the mountains can be tortuous. The roads are narrow, serpentine exercises in frustration. Swerving from lane to lane around giant potholes, immensely overloaded trucks grind their way up the road at walking speed. Every small village boasts a series of túmulos, carnivorous speed bumps, that will destroy your undercarriage if hit at speed. (Tire and wheel shops are a fixture on the road next to these hazards.) Chicken buses, brightly painted, converted former U.S. school buses and the most common form of motorized transportation in Guatemala, pass you uphill and around corners, daring descending vehicles to collide. (and they do so in alarming numbers.)

Divided highways become two lane roads, then one way, cobblestone streets without warning. While Google Maps is surprisingly useful in Guatemala, only the foolish or suicidal would ever trust a shortcut provided by the service. Add rain and the odd landslide or two, and we begin to practice our repertoire of Spanish curses. Our trip is only 60 road miles, but it takes a full three hours to complete.

From Tropical Summer to Eternal Spring

Our “base of operations” in Retalhuleu, Guatemala is in the extreme heat and humidity of the lowlands. We are pummeled by fierce afternoon thunderstorms but is sunny and very hot in the morning. It is a land generally covered in sugar cane, palms and mango fincas outside of the city. The terrain is flat, and only occasionally broken by a river or small hill. The smoking Volcán Santiaguito, one of three Guatemalan Volcanoes actively erupting, marks our departure from the lowlands, and our slow climb into the spring time weather of the mountains. Palm and banana trees give way to pines as we near the community of Nahualá. There is a 25 degree drop in temperature and a welcome breeze as we near the summit of the Pan American highway. Lago Atitlán, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, can be glimpsed in the distance.

Nahualá firefighters protect a municipality nestled high in the Sierra Madre Mountains of Guatemala
Nahualá, (na-wa-LA) Nestled high in the Sierra Madre Mountains of Guatemala

Nahualá is a K’iché Maya community.

Most of the residents speak K’iché as their primary language with spanish as their second.

As many as thirty percent do not speak Spanish at all.

K’iché is a melodious language, though, using sounds that do not exist in english or spanish, difficult for a gringo tongue. Inexplicably, it is odd to hear it spoken on the fire dispatch cellular telephone, as if an ancient language does not belong on modern technology. Substituting Spanish for the words that don’t exist in K’iché comes second nature to the firefighters. An interesting two and three language conversation arose, testing our patience as we groped for explanations and translations of fire department terminology.

Nahualá Firefighters: Rolling a Stone Uphill

Nahualá Firefighters with AMEDICAusa.
Nahualá Firefighters with AMEDICAusa.

Over 50,000 people live in Nahualá. Since most are indigenous Maya, most are impoverished. Protecting this town is one small fire company, 77 Compañía, Bomberos Voluntarios. The Nahualá firefighters are six “permanentes” (paid, career firefighters) and six more volunteers. The paid firefighters work a three man shift, on a 24 on and 24 off schedule for about $300 usd a month. Their fire engine is an elderly japanese truck, with 600 gallons of water and 100 feet of 1 1/2″ firehose. That’s it. No supply hose. There are no fire hydrants. There is no water tender (tanker). Meant for civilian use, what they call “firefighting” nozzles began life as standpipe nozzles in an American building somewhere. Of course, their bunker gear is threadbare and holed as well. Additionally, three of their twelve fire helmets date back to World War II, the others to at least the 1980’s.

Emergency Medical Care in the Cordillera

Nahualá firefighters rely on this pickup for one of their two ambulances. It has only a military style stretcher to move patients.
Nahualá firefighters rely on this pickup for one of their two ambulances. It has only a military style stretcher to move patients.

As in the U.S., in Guatemala the most common service provided by the Fire Department in emergency medical care. The firefighters are the primary source of EMS and ambulance transport throughout the country. Nahualá is no exception. The hospitals serving Nahualá are an hour or more away in either direction. Responding to these calls are two serviceable ambulance units, one a converted toyota van, the other a camper shell equipped pickup.

The van has a stretcher, an ancient Ferno model 30. Once common in the U.S. they are now largely abandoned because of the difficulty loading it into an ambulance, particularly here. (The K’iché are a diminutive people, it is the only place where we feel tall.) They can lift the stretcher only by sheer force of will. They are forced to lash it in place with rope because the floor mechanism that holds it in place is not available. On the other hand, only an old, unwheeled, wood and canvas military stretcher services the other. For bandages, equipment and other medical supplies, they rely on donations.

An old Ferno stretcher lashed in place with rope. The floor locks to hold it are no longer made.
An old Ferno stretcher lashed in place with rope. The floor locks to hold it are no longer made.

We talk over recent Nahualá recent calls, “War Stories” as they are referred to in the fire service. The nearest mutual aid fire companies are over an hour away. A month ago a tractor trailer plowed into a large group of people trying to assist a previous motor vehicle accident. The impact killed nineteen people and injured dozens more. Yesterday they spent eight hours on a mutual aid call retrieving the body of a french tourist who managed to walk over a cliff near Lake Atitlán.

AMEDICAusa to provide assistance

There is more to our trip than just a friendly chat. It is a chance to take a detailed look at what the fire company has, what they need and how we might help. After all, our disaster relief mission is training and equipping the fire and rescue services of Guatemala. An integral part of that process is evaluating the local services and sending our resources where they will do the most good.

Nahualá meets all of our criteria. A large population with a dedicated but under equipped fire company. No nearby mutual aid companies to assist, so we will not be duplicating services.. A willingness to train and work hard.

All we need is a little of your help.

Want to help in Nahualá and other impoverished areas of Guatemala? Donate a little of your hard earned money here. Contact us about donating used but serviceable fire equipment, PPE or apparatus. Get fully involved by joining us on a training mission in Guatemala. It is an experience you will not soon forget.

Fire-Rescue Instructors Get “Schooled” in Guatemala

AMEDICAusa and REDS Team Fire-Rescue Instructors Get Schooled at Retalhuleu Guatemala

AMEDICAusa and REDS Team Fire-Rescue Instructors deliver school supplies in Retalhuleu, Guatemala

Annual Fire-Rescue School Takes a Break

Retalhuleu, Guatemala- It is a tough job. It’s hot, humid and the days are long. The logistics are difficult, the equipment minimal. So, it takes some tough, experienced people to train fire and rescue personnel in Guatemala.

Our annual Fire-Rescue school in Guatemala is a joint project of the REDS Team, of Garner, North Carolina and AMEDICAusa. Twenty-seven fire departments, the Guatemalan army’s humanitarian rescue team (UHR) and the Red Cross attended this year for classes including Water Rescue and Fireground operations.

After several grueling days spent in the water and on the training grounds, the instructors and the Army were given a little break. This morning, we loaded up the military truck with supplies and headed off to visit two local elementary schools.

When Programs Collide

Life for a child in rural Guatemala can be rough. Most parents work as subsistence farmers or campesinos on larger farms. Money is scarce, most living on about $1.75 a day. Clothes, books and even meals are difficult to come by. The grim statistics are that in Guatemala there are tens of thousands of school age children who are not in school. Simply because they can not afford the supplies.

AMEDICAusa provides a supply program to elementary schools in rural areas in Guatemala. Placing the basic education supplies directly into the hands of the students ensures that at least one worry is taken care of. Each packet contains enough supplies for about three months of school.

This is the first such supply trip that our instructors have experienced. But the crossover between our programs is not at all unusual. Because we work closely with the local fire departments, and the firefighters know EVERYBODY, we get many referrals of schools in need from them. Local firefighters also frequently serve as volunteers on our missions.

“Tough Guy” Hearts Melt, and it Isn’t the Heat

Our previous Fire-Rescue schools have always been at the Air Force base in Guatemala City. Logistically this was easier, and the City’s altitude provides a more temperate climate. But Guatemala City has no river, and water rescue classes require, obviously, water.

Moving to the pacific lowlands, where there are rivers, but also extreme heat and humidity, presented some challenges. However, it also gave our instructors the opportunity to see a great deal more of rural Guatemala, and to meet people outside of the fire service and military.

You use what you have in Guatemala. A classroom wall built of egg cartons.

A classroom wall built of egg cartons. You use what you have in Guatemala.

An escuelita in rural Central America bears little resemblance to a typical elementary school in the U.S..  Construction is generally primitive. Dirt floors are common, many have bamboo walls, and electricity and running water are often only a dream. Fans or air-conditioning are unknown, even in the heat of the lowlands. The Ministry of Education provides a teacher’s salary, such as it is (around $300 usd a month), and not much else. It is one thing to know about the poverty of the Guatemalan people, it is quite another to experience it first hand.  No where is it more evident than in a rural escuelita.

Our instructors are both shocked and amazed. Seeing how little these kids have, and how grateful they are for a little help is a humbling experience. Several are so moved that they offer to come back simply to help with more school missions. We will be glad to have them.

Demonstrating AMEDICAusa Goggles for the kids

Practicing AMEDICAusa Goggles with the kids (photo: The REDS Team)

Time to get to work.

The kids are a little shy at first. We are far from the Guatemala City or the tourist towns of Antigua and Lake Atitlán, so the children have had little or no interaction with “Gringos” before. Breaking the ice isn’t difficult, teaching the kids how to put on our our “AMEDICAusa Goggles” does the trick, along with taking their pictures and simply asking their names and speaking with them in broken Spanish.

A lollipop break with the kids

A lollipop break with the kids

Each child is given his or her own package containing notebooks, pens, pencils, erasers and, as a small bonus, a lollipop. Everyone gets into the act, exchanging a smile, a brief word or a fist bump as the kids get their packet. The time is too brief. While all of us could easily spend the entire day here, but we have another school to supply, and classes to instruct this afternoon.

Teaching students and soldiers to put on AMEDICAusa goggles

Fire Instructor Captain Allen Jenkins distributes school supplies and smiles in equal measure

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Firefighter & Water Rescue instructor David Thompson exchanges a fist bump with a schoolboy.

Water Rescue instructor Kirsten Steele, herself a teacher, with Guatemalan school kids.

UHR soldiers distribute school supplies with AMEDICAusa

AMEDICAusa president Neale Brown during school supplies mission in Retalhuleu

Teniente (Lt.) Angela Werner of the Guatemalan Army UHR

Water Rescue Instructors Kirsten Steele and Emily Harrison with some new friends

San Miguel los Lotes – Guatemala’s New Pompeii

Dinner Table where a family was eating lunch in San Miguel los Lotes, Guatemala

Dinning Table where a family was just sitting down for lunch in San Miguel los Lotes, Guatemala (photo: AMEDICAusa)

Nothing was Unusual in San Miguel los Lotes

Zona Cero, Guatemala – A quiet, sunny, Sunday afternoon in the small Guatemalan town. The only day off for most of the villagers who commonly work sunrise to sunset six days a week, toiling in the fields of nearby fincas or tending one of the myriad Tiendas (tiny convenience stores) that dot the towns of the country. Some are just home from church, some are sleeping off Saturday’s ritual night out. Kids are playing inside and out. Dogs roam the streets. Mothers and grandmothers are setting lunch, Sunday’s main meal, on tables outside. Dominating the skyline above is Guatemala’s most active volcano, Volcán Fuego, emitting a pretty normal plume of ash and steam…

 

Volcán Fuego Eruption – June 3, 2018, San Miguel los Lotes (Caution: Strong images) 

Gray. Just Gray.

An overwhelming monochrome moonscape strikes you as soon as you arrive. As if someone has filtered out all the color from the world and left only the slight variations of tone found in old photographs.  What little color remains is muted, dusty and somehow sadder for its rarity.  A child’s shoe here, a discarded plastic cup there… but not nearly enough to brighten the landscape. What few leaves remain on the scorched and dying trees are dull, drooping and grey/tan. A sudden and very hot winter has come to the land of eternal spring. At first, you see what appears to be a scattering of small houses, dusty, dirty, and empty. It is only when you look closer that you realize that you are looking at the second story, the single story residences having been completely buried.

This is, in fact, one of the chief dangers of San Miguel los Lotes now.

A Dangerous Path

There is the Volcano, of course. It remains active and new eruptions are not only possible, but likely. We have posted a lookout just in case there is any activity during our survey. We are five miles from the main vent, close enough that there is some danger. Lahars are a threat as well, but less so, since there haven’t been heavy rains in the last two or three days. Dust is less of a problem since the rains have compacted much of the finer ash that would pose a heath risk. Still, we are careful not to scuff our feet or raise more dust than we absolutely have to.

Partially excavated for access, the main street of San Miguel los Lotes

Partially excavated for access, the main street of San Miguel los Lotes (photo: AMEDICAusa)

No, the most serious risk we face at the moment is the buried, unmarked houses. Most have laminate roofs, either metal or fiberglass, not very well supported in the best of times, now carrying the load of many tons of ash and rock. Some have already collapsed, leaving sandy, crater-like depressions in the earth, adding to the feeling you are on the moon.

It would take just a little more weight, say your footstep, to collapse a roof, drop you into the void and bury you in the ash that followed.

San Miguel los Lotes Before & After Eruption - AMEDICAusa

San Miguel los Lotes Before & After Eruption  (photos: DigitalGlobe)

Learning from Disaster

AMEDICAusa had, of course, been active in the disaster recovery from the day of the eruption.  Messages from our friends and firefighter colleagues in Guatemala started pouring in within minutes of the event.  Clearly it was much worse than the initial news reports. It became quickly evident that there was severe shortages of even the most simple of rescue and emergency medical supplies. That became our priority.  Our staff and volunteers were engaged in the effort to get supplies to the shelters, hospitals and first responders for the first two weeks after the disaster.But identifying needs, arranging donations and distribution of supplies from the States is not the same as being on the ground.

To learn what was done and what wasn’t, what worked and what didn’t, I needed to go to Zona Cero.

 

When in Doubt, Call the Fire Department

My first call was to my long time friend, Comandante Vinicio Calderon, Chief of 32 Compañía, Bomberos Voluntarios, in Patulul.  In addition to his duties as Chief of Department, Calderon serves as commander of an entire regional division of Guatemalan’s Fire Service, some 16 cities, including the area near Volcán del Fuego. Calderon was part of the command team, and intimately involved in the emergency response to the eruption.

Zona Cero is a restricted area, for many reasons, but primarily because of the dangers involved in just being there. No one is allowed in without legitimate need. CONRED (Guatemala’s version of FEMA) keeps a tight reign on access. Even with prior arrangement, it took several hours and a lot of paperwork to obtain my unrestricted pass from CONRED. (I was asked for next of kin information and to which hospital I wished to be transported as well as my normal travel documents… an ominous touch.)  They do not allow media access and the press has congregated in a small, semi-permanent knot around the zone’s roadblock. 

Neale Brown and Vinicio Calderon at San Miguel los Lotes

Neale Brown and Comandante Vinicio Calderon at San Miguel los Lotes (photo: 32 Cia. Bomberos Voluntarios)

On The Road

The military counts people in and out, as even with an official pass, only so many are permitted in the zone at a time. We were held at the military guard station for over an hour and were allowed in only when enough workers had exited to counter our entrance.

The first half mile of the journey into the zone from the checkpoint is eerie. There is a fine coating of ash over everything, but for the most part it looks undamaged, but deserted. Houses, stores, even cars stand ready for use, but remain empty. Occasional stray dogs wander alongside the road. I wonder who, if anyone, takes care of them. A low, gray, rocky hill in the middle of the highway marks our entry into the true Zona Cero. Beyond this point the pavement ends, covered in hundreds of thousands of tons of volcanic ash and rock. A highway crew is parked next to the buried village. They are working feverishly to reopen Ruta 14, the main highway linking western Guatemala to Antigua.

A Walk on the Moon

Accompanied by Comandante Calderon and three of his firefighters who were here during the initial response to the eruption, we climbed the ash hill into the ruins of the village. There is a smell. At first, just a faint whiff of sulfur, then the strong smell of corruption and decay. It waxes and wanes as we walk, but it is always there. An awful reminder that this is now officially a cemetery, with a great many bodies still unrecovered.  The Fire Chief relates how difficult it was to abandon the recovery effort. 

We walked through some of the buildings that were still accessible. A neighborhood restaurant and bar, the chairs and tables scattered and overturned. The small kitchen of a home. The shrine to Virgen de Guadalupe that somehow survived the destruction of the rest of its building. The firefighters pointed out where they were able to affect rescues, and the more numerous places where they recovered the dead. Search markings left by the responders remain on the walls of those structures above the ash. A paint mark meaning three dead found here, or more commonly, no entry, no survivors.  Over there, they say, is where we recovered the children, indicating a breached cement block wall where five children were found clutching each other on a bed.  I’ve seen the photograph. I won’t reproduce it here.

Firefighters deal with their burning boots at San Miguel los Lotes

Firefighters faced increasing injuries, damage to equipment, and were finally chased out of the zone, at a dead run, in an emergency evacuation due to a lahar. Command ordered all rescue and recovery efforts to cease. Difficult as it was, the risk to the responders outweighed the bleak prospects for any remaining rescues. It was unpopular. Families wanted their loved ones recovered. Firefighters wanted to keep working.

It was, however, the correct decision.

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Lessons learned and What is Needed Now?

Despite the danger, and the difficulty of the task, both mentally and physically, the firefighters didn’t want to give up. Hiking boots fell apart, the glue melting and the stitching charred by the latent heat of the debris. Gloves wore out in hours, abraded by the glass-like volcanic ash. Eyes grew red and irritated by the dust, leaking around cheap construction goggles. Coughing and sneezing from that which penetrated the masks.

Questions remain about the initial circumstances surrounding the government’s response to the disaster. The authorities were apparently meeting about whether or not to evacuate the area at the time of the eruption. This has raised something of a political firestorm, but is not related to the emergency response to the disaster after the eruption itself. By all accounts, while there were some difficulties, the fire service performed well, even heroically, in the response. There are some training issues, but the biggest problems involved equipment, or rather, the lack thereof. Boots and gloves for the responders were used up at a prodigious rate. Not designed for intense heat nor the abrasive volcanic materials what few they had were soon gone. Simple masks and goggles capable of filtering out the fine volcanic dust were in short supply.

 

The end of the pyroclastic flow at the furthest edge of the village.

The end of the pyroclastic flow at the furthest edge of the village. (photo: AMEDICAusa)

 

 

 

 

The Scope of the Disaster

The official toll stands at 169 fatalities, though they are only counting those victims whom they have identified. Firefighters Juan Bajxac and Antonio Castillo were killed in the eruption. Both were members of 55 Compañía CVB, Alotenango.  CONRED official Juan Francisco Galindo and Police Officer Donaldo Chután Enríquez also gave their lives.

Juan Bajxac and Antonio Castillo of 55 cia CVB, evacuating people from a bridge moments before their death.

Juan Bajxac and Antonio Castillo of 55 Compañía, CVB, Alotenango, Guatemala, evacuating people from a bridge moments before their death.

Unofficially, authorities in the Guatemalan government and rescuers within Zona Cero have told us the the actual numbers are closer to 3,000 dead. Several small villages, not mapped or named, are not included. Hundreds more sustained injuries, including life threatening burns.

 3,379 people remain in twelve official shelters. Thousands more being sheltered privately with family and friends.

San Miguel los Lotes has been declared a National Cemetery.

Relief Efforts Continue

The shelters for the survivors are exhausting many of their relief supplies.  One shelter, the Finca de Industria in Esquintla, told me that they will run out of food on or about October 1st. They are also short of personal sanitation supplies and cleaning products.  Fortunately, one of our partner organizations, Sociedad Cívico Cultural Guatemala of Chicago, Illinois, is delivering more than a truckload of supplies to the shelters this week to help ease the shortages. (Though many of the canned and dried foodstuffs they shipped have been held at the border, “until it can be determined if they are expired”. They aren’t –  I helped pack a lot of them.) A lot more will be needed before the survivors can be resettled.

Plans for that are moving with glacial rapidity.

 

Canalitos: How We Made a Fire Chief Cry in Guatemala

AMEDICAusa - Delivering the goods in Canalitos, Guatemala

AMEDICAusa – Delivering the goods in Canalitos, Guatemala

Canalitos: Welcome to the “Red Zone”

The cantón of Canalitos, known in Guatemala City as Zona 24, is one of the poorest and most dangerous parts of a city already infamous for gang violence and extreme poverty. You venture there with some trepidation, and only with good reason.  It is designated a “Red Zone“. Once denoting areas controlled by the insurgents during the civil war, Red Zone is now the term for particularly dangerous, crime ridden areas.

Canalitos Firefighters on scene with a gunshot victim

Canalitos Firefighters on scene with a  17 year old girl, victim of a gang shooting.

Emergency Services in Zona 24 are provided by the Bomberos de Canalitos. A small, very young Fire Department, their Facebook page is littered with posts of shooting victims to which they have responded. Since they have no fire engine, they run primarily out of a small “Ambulance”, a worn out Toyota mini-van. Formally the private vehicle of the Fire Chief, it is showing its age.  Bucket brigades are used to control any fires. Independent of the two national Guatemalan fire organizations, they struggle for support. Asking a Quetzal (13¢ U.S.) a month, what few funds they have come in small donations from local residents. 

Building a Fire Company in Canalitos

We do not do much work in Guatemala City. We have a relationship, of course, with the Bomberos Voluntarios and Bomberos Municipales, and both have their national headquarters in the capitol.  But, by and large, the capitol’s fire companies, while underfunded, have more equipment and training than their rural counterparts. They protect, after all, the homes and workplaces of the country’s congress, bureaucrats and most of the nation’s wealthy.

Canalitos is different. Annexed into the city almost as an afterthought – Guatemala’s major watersource of is here – few of the city’s services are available to residents. Neither national firefighting group is really interested in investing in such a poor area. Of course, very little tax revenue comes out of the barrio, so it remains largely ignored by the government. 

Enter Pablo Muralles and Angelica Garrido‎. Veterans of Guatemala’s Bomberos Municipales, they created a new fire department where none had existed. With the grandiose name “Asociación de Emergencias Medicas Bomberos de Canalitos” (ASEMBOC) they took on a small, run-down commercial building for their station  While building the department, they recruited at-risk youth to form the core of their firefighting force. Creating an alternative to the gangs and violence is important to them. 

AMEDICAusa meeting with (L-R) Pablo Muralles, Angelica Garrido‎ and Marisol Martinez of ASEMBOC

AMEDICAusa meeting in Guatemala City with (L-R) Pablo Muralles, Angelica Garrido, and Marisol Martinez of ASEMBOC

 

AMEDICAusa Gets Involved

Guatemalans are a close people, even when far removed from home. Carlos Luna, a Canalitos native now living in Chicago, brought the fire department to our attention.  Luna runs a large Guatemalan community group in the windy city, as well as “Marimba Luna Maya” an international youth music group. He also holds down an everyday job. Carlos is a busy guy. But he still has time to try and help out his native barrio. He contacted AMEDICAusa after hearing how we help the Guatemalan fire services, and put us in touch with Comandante Muralles.  A meeting was arranged in Guatemala (to which the firefighters brought Rellenitos, one of my favorite Guatemalan foods) where we got to know the department and it’s challenges.

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A Long Journey for Fire Equipment

Of the things Bomberos de Canalitos lacks, perhaps none are so important as protective gear for the firefighters. Helmets, coats, jackets, gloves and boots are difficult to find, and very expensive in Guatemala. Even more difficult is to find them in matching colors and styles to outfit an entire fire company.It is not at all unusual to find firefighters in 1960’s era fiberglass helmets, canvas jackets and gardening gloves.  ASEMBOC had some, courtesy of Carlos and the Chicago Fire department, but not nearly enough.  Could AMEDICAusa help them out?

We had received a great donation of black turnout coats and pants from Waldwick Volunteer Fire Department in New Jersey. An equal number of fire helmets, nearly new, came from the Huntington Volunteer First Aid Squad in Long Island, New York. Boots from Pennsylvania, gloves from North Carolina. Yeah, we can do it! But how do we get it to Guatemala?

It really Does take a Whole Village

About this time, Volcán Fuego erupted in Guatemala, and AMEDICAusa was involved in the relief effort. The aftermath of the eruption brought the chapín community in Chicago together in a relief drive for the folks back home. Donations of clothes, medical supplies, food and money were being raised, and a Guatemalan-American shipping company, ServiExpress, had even donated the shipping. Carlos Luna asked if I would be interested in coming to Chicago to speak and help out at their relief event. (He also promised me the best Rellenitos north of Tikal if I would do it.)  Space could be found for some fire gear he told me.

Not wanting to show up empty handed, I managed to stuff enough sets of turnout gear, helmets, gloves and boots to outfit Canalitos into my little car and set out for Chicago.  

Chief Garrido sheds a tear when receiving an AMEDICAusa equipment donation

Chief Angelica Garrido sheds a tear while receiving an AMEDICAusa equipment donation

“I may have caused

a Fire Chief or two

to cry during my career,

but never before in happiness”

               – Neale Brown, AMEDICAusa

 

Fortunately the Guatemalan community of Chicago were spared the agony of my public speaking, but we loaded A LOT of boxes that night. Enough to fill a couple of tractor trailers with donated goods. Included in that haul were our firefighting equipment, soon to be on its way to Guatemala.

So, two emergency service agencies, one Chicago community organization, one shipping company, one Maryland based non-profit, several dozen volunteers, and several thousands of miles later, the firefighters of Canalitos are a little bit safer tonight. It makes me want to cry a little too.

Next we have to find them a better Ambulance…. anybody got one to donate?

No,really…I’m Serious. Call me.

Canalitos Ambulance towing a TukTuk

Hard to say who should be towing who…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.9 Earthquake strikes Southwest Guatemala

Victim is rescued from Church collapse after earthquake.

Victim is rescued from Church collapse after Guatemalan earthquake.

Early Morning Earthquake claims at least one life.

Retalhuleu, Guatemala- A violent earthquake collapsed a portion of the Catholic Church in San Sebastian, Retalhuleu, Guatemala  early this morning. 30 year old Juan Francisco Esteban Javier was sleeping inside the church. Though rescued alive from the rubble by firefighters of Retalhuleu’s 11 Compañía CBV,  Javier later died of his injuries at the local hospital. Sadly, the first confirmed fatality in this morning’s severe quake. An elderly woman has reportedly perished of a heart attack resulting from the temblor in nearby Malacatán, San Marcos, Guatemala.

Landslides and Damage to Buildings widespread.

Retalhuleu’s Fire Chief, Salvador Matheu, said that the older Spanish colonial buildings were the worst affected. Firefighters and city officials have been surveying the damage throughout the city.

“There is damage to the Old Cathedral and the Governor’s Palace in the historic Central Square.” said Matheu. “and even some to the Fire Station. Newer buildings haven’t been damaged as much.”

Firefighters prepare to move leaking Chlorine tank after earthquake

Firefighters prepare to move leaking tank of chlorine gas after earthquake.

A chlorine gas leak at the city’s water treatment plant became the most immediate problem after the rescue. The earthquake had fractured a supply line from the supply tank to the plant causing an uncontrolled release of the deadly gas.  

 

We don’t have hazardous materials suits, so the best we could do was move the tank as far as we could from the houses nearby, while wearing our firefighting gear.” said the chief.

In the nearby town of Santa Cruz Muluá, a portion of the old Catholic Church collapsed and the municipal building was damaged. Maydi Aguilar, an official of the municipality said “We have reports of houses damaged and collapsed both town and in the villages but, thank god, no injuries reported yet.”

The main highway linking Retalhuleu with Quetzaltenango, two of Guatemala’s largest cities, has been blocked by multiple landslides and a possible tunnel collapse.

Officials Breathe a sigh of relief after earthquake.

Reports of serious damage are coming in from firefighters and officials all around the area of the earthquake. However, most of our reports have said one thing in common. It could have been much worse.  San Cristóbal, Totonicopán reported damage to buildings, but no known injuries. Quetzaltenango, Guatemala’s second largest city reported extensive damage, but few injuries. Even towns closer to the epicenter, San Marcos, Malacatán and San Pablo, report few injuries, though the power is out in those areas.  The epicenter of today’s earthquake was deep and in a relatively sparsely populated region of the country. This is thought to have limited the human toll. For comparison, the 1976 Guatemala Earthquake killed 23,000 and injured 76,000 more.

Experts say aftershocks are possible over the next few weeks and maybe as strong or stronger than the original quake. Residents of the region are being urged to take precautions.

 

Update: 9:32 pm EST: The Institute of Seismology, Volcanology, Meteorology and Hydrology (Insivumeh) said that in 15 hours, they had recorded 39 aftershocks with magnitudes between 3.3 and 4.6 .  Prensa Libre is now reporting five (5) deaths in total. The three additional deaths are said to be cardiac related. In addition, they report seven additional traumatic injuries. Fifty (50) known landslides have blocked roads and highways in the area.

 

 

 

 

A Really BIG Bird Lands in Guatemala

AMEDICAusa - USAF C-17 Arriving with Firefighting Equipment in Guatemala City

AMEDICAusa  – USAF C-17 Arriving with Firefighting Equipment in Guatemala City

Firefighters Greet Giant Cargo Aircraft on the Tarmac

Guatemala City, Guatemala –  You really have to see a C-17 up close to experience the shear size of the thing. Second in size only to the Air Force’s C-5 Galaxy, the C-17 is capable of carrying enormous amounts of cargo over vast distances. Always a rare sight, this one appearing over Guatemala City is special for another reason. It is carrying a fully equipped fire engine and several tons of Fire and Emergency Medical equipment to the firefighters and paramedics of Guatemala.

The culmination of a year long AMEDICAusa project in cooperation with The REDS Team of North Carolina, and the Denton Program of the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) this flight carried everything from band-aids to fire helmets for multiple Fire Departments and hundreds of Guatemalan firefighters. The supplies and equipment were donated to the effort by fire departments and rescue services from around the U.S. 

We looked like children opening gifts at Christmas! – Chief Salvador Matheu, 11 Compañía CVB, Retalhuleu, Guatemala

 

AMEDICAusa - Firefighters await the arrival of new equipment

Fire Crews awaiting the arrival of the Fire Flight from the U.S. – AMEDICAusa

Guatemala has 134 Bomberos Voluntarios and 88 Bomberos Municipales* fire stations spread through the country. Few of these departments – outside of downtown Guatemala City – receive much in the way of governmental funding. These 222 stations serve a population of almost 17 million people spread over 42,000 square miles of difficult terrain. (For comparison, the City of New York has 255  stations covering 8.4 million people in 305 square miles…The State of Pennsylvania has 1852 Fire Stations for 12.8 million people over 46,000 square miles.) All of the stations struggle financially to keep their doors open, and nearly all rely on second (or third) hand equipment, generally from the U.S. or Canada.

AMEDICAusa - Unloading fire engine

Unloading a  fire engine from the C-17 in Guatemala

“I can’t deny that it was a big spectacle to see this huge plane landing and even more when they lowered the fire engine, it looked so tiny coming out of this big plane.” said Chief Matheu who helped AMEDICAusa coordinate the distribution of equipment at the Guatemalan Air Base. 

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Several Fire Departments get New Gear

Fire companies came from all over Guatemala to pick up the equipment allotted to them.  For example, San Pedro 42 Compañía CBM received all new turnout gear – jackets, pants, boots, gloves and helmets – for it’s 40 firefighters. Retalhuleu 11 Compañía CVB received palettes of E.M.S. supplies, a new ambulance stretcher and leather rescue gloves. San Cristóbal, Totonicapán 121 CVB finally got a fire engine, turnouts and SCBA after ten years of trying.

 

AMEDICAusa -Sorting Fire Equipment at the Air Base

Sorting Fire Equipment at the Air Base

“It’s a difficult job.” said AMEDICAusa President Neale Brown. “There is overwhelming need and we get a lot of requests for fire equipment. We work closely with the two national fire organizations as well as with the stations themselves to determine where we donate which equipment. Often it is a question of how we can do the most good for the most people with what limited resources we have.” 

 

“Training is a big component of the program.” said Brown. “We have to ensure that the department receiving the equipment is well trained in its use, to make sure it is used safely and effectively. Some firefighting and rescue equipment can be particularly dangerous to operate. Before we donate such tools to a department we make sure that they have, or will, train with us in its use.”

AMEDICAusa runs an annual fire/rescue school in Guatemala.

Relationships with USAID and Other Agencies are Pivotal.

“Our programs would be much more difficult, much more expensive, and much less effective were it not for USAID, our donor departments and our NGO partners.” said Brown.

“Transportation costs alone would eat up most of our budget if we didn’t have Denton Program support.  Many people think that programs like ours are paid for by the government as part of a largely mythical foreign aid budget. The reality is that the U.S. budgets less than 1% annually for it’s foreign aid programs, and most of that is in the areas of security and defense. A tiny fraction goes to humanitarian aid world wide. It worries us, and other non-profits, when we start hearing all the ‘America First’ talk.  We depend on the equipment donations of U.S. fire and rescue departments and on the transportation afforded by the Denton program. I am heartened by the description that one U.S. Embassy staffer offered, that we are the best ‘good bang for the buck’ in terms of costs for humanitarian programs. “

The Denton Program offers NGO’s the opportunity to use military shipping at no cost . If there is space available on an aircraft or surface ship that is going to the desired country anyway, approved humanitarian aid can be used to fill that empty space. The bureaucratic process is generally slow, complicated and difficult, but is often worth the trouble for NGO’s like AMEDICAusa.


Get Involved!

There is an opportunity to help us with our next firefighting supply and training missions in Guatemala. The next fire engine is almost ready to go, but we always need more equipment, and cash donations to help with costs. Interested in being a Fire/Rescue instructor?  Contact Us.

"FIRE FLIGHT" Air Force crew with AMEDICAusa in Guatemala

“FIRE FLIGHT” Air Force crew with AMEDICAusa and Firefighters in Guatemala

AMEDICAusa, inc. is an I.R.S. 501(C)(3) registered charity, headquartered in Frederick, Maryland.

We are always looking for volunteers who wish to help in Guatemala. Get the details here.

Donating to AMEDICAusa ‘s ongoing programs is easy. Get the details here.

 


*There are two different and separate national firefighting organizations in Guatemala. Bomberos Voluntarios or CVB (Volunteer Firefighters) and Bomberos Municipales or CBM (Municipal Firefighters) . Despite the names, both organizations have career and volunteer members and a very similar rank and organizational structure. The chief difference is in how they originate, whether organized initially by a Mayor (CBM) or by a private citizens committee (CVB).  They are somewhat competitive, and sometimes duplicate services within a single area.